15-17 June | Croatia

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We kick off on Saturday morning, June 15, in Zagreb with a meet and greet, a welcome lunch and a tour of the city in which we shall explore the rich history of the Croatian capital, which dates back to Roman times, taking in such landmarks as the neo-Gothic Cathedral of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary (the city's most famous symbol), the vibrant Strossmayer promenade (for some panoramic views), Gradec, one of the two medieval settlements that formed Zagreb (via the world's smallest funicular), and the neoclassic Mirogoj cemetery complex, one of the seven most endangered cultural monuments in Europe. We will visit the world-famous Museum of Broken Relationships, the Tesla Museum, and ,  if time permits, we shall also get a closer look at the Croatian Homeland War with a visit to the underground tunnels left over from World War Two.

 

On Sunday afternoon, June 16, we drive from Zagreb to Plitvice Lakes, Croatia’s oldest and largest national park. En route to the lakes, we shall visit the village of Rastoke, known as ‘the small lakes of Plitvice’, and famous for its waterfalls, water powered mechanical mills, weavers of flax and hemp, and local bread (rastočki domaći kruh). We will spend the night at the national park so we can start our tour first thing in the morning on Monday.

 

Founded in 1948, the Plitvice nature reserve has been on the UNESCO World Heritage List since 1979. Located in the mountainous karst area, at the border to Bosnia and Herzegovina, the park comprises a continuous 5-mile (8km) chain of 16 lakes and many spectacular cascades and waterfalls and is the most popular tourist attraction in Croatia.

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18-21 June | Bosnia and Herzegovina

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Sarajevo and Mostar are our key destinations in Bosnia and Herzegovina. 

 

Before heading to Sarajevo, we shall have a night (June 17) in the tiny city of Jajce, which has been the home of medieval kings and Ottoman governors and one of President Tito's earliest Communist strongholds. Among the highlights of the fortified city are its citadel and ramparts, the catacombs leading to the tomb of the Jajce's founder, Bosnian Grand Duke Hrvoje Vukčić Hrvatinić, the Mithraeum (dedicated to the Roman god of the sun, Mithra), and a magnificent waterfall. 

 

As the capital of Bosnia and Herzegovina, Sarajevo has been the crucible from which major historical events have ignited, namely the assassination of Archduke Franz Ferdinand on 28 June 1914, which set off World War One, and the horrors of a four-year civil war that played out in the city until 1995. Today, however, Sarajevo is the country's thriving political, social and cultural centre, known for its celebration of peaceful religious coexistence. From the captivating Old Town to the deep scars of its devastating history, Sarajevo will provide our guests with much to see, hear, taste and feel.

 

Sarajevo's cultural heart is Baščaršija, the historic Old Town, where Eastern European and Turkish influences blend with architecture dating back to the 15th century. We shall explore the city's most essential attractions from here, including the exquisite Gazi Husrev-beg mosque, the looming Neo-Gothic Sacred Heart Catholic Cathedral, and Vjećnica, Sarajevo City Hall, is a stunning architectural example from Austria-Hungary's era of imperial rule. And rising solemnly over the Miljacka River is the Latin Bridge, which holds a remarkable place in world history, as it was here that the assassination of Archduke Franz Ferdinand and his wife Sophie took place. We shall also be reminded of the city's bloody recent past as we encounter the Sarajevo Roses (craters from shell-blast damage filled with red resin in memory of casualties), visit the Tunnel of Hope, which provided a lifeline for Sarajevo during the war, and Gallery 11/07/1995, a heartbreaking exhibition to commemorate the Srebrenica tragedy.

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After spending two nights in Sarajevo, we head to Mostar. On our way, we will take a guided tour of Tito’s Cold War bunker, ARK (Atomic War Command), one of the top secrets of former Yugoslavia.

 

We will spend June 20 & 21 in Mostar, one of the country's most ethnically diverse locations. Located along the Neretva River, this charming historic city is most famous for its breathtaking reconstructed historic Ottoman-style arched bridge, Stari Most (Old Bridge) which is packed with history and deeply emotional lesson in reconciliation. We shall also have loads of time to explore at our leisure the bustling market stalls and shops, and visit the Old Bridge Museum and the Koski Mehmed-Pasha Mosque's minaret, which provides some super scenic city views.

 

22-23 June | Croatia

 

We journey back into Croatia for two nights in beautiful Dubrovnik, with a lunch stop at the Radimlja necropolis, the most famous of medieval stećci tombstones, in Herzegovina.

 

Rising high above the Adriatic, backed by the rugged heights of Mt Srđ, Dubrovnik lies within sturdy medieval fortifications, complete with crenellated towers. The former Republic of Ragusa (1358-1808), Dubrovnik, has a fascinating and sophisticated past and its UNESCO-listed old town is Croatia's top destination. Our guided walking tour will take in the city's most significant historical and cultural landmarks, as well as the filming locations for Game of Thrones, Robin Hood and Star Wars. We shall also provide time to explore the famed city walls and its five fortresses and 16 towers and bastion, which offer amazing views out to sea.

 

Highlights along the way include the 15th-century Gothic-Renaissance Rector's Palace; a ghoulish horde of gold and silver medieval reliquaries and ancient saintly bones at the Treasury adjoining Dubrovnik Cathedral, including the skull of St Blaise (Dubrovnik's patron saint), and for lovers of 1970s design, the Red History Museum, which includes funky retro displays of how people lived in Croatia under Socialist Yugoslavia (1945-1991). We shall end the day watching the sunset over the shimmering blue Adriatic. Oh what bliss!

 

24 June | Montenegro

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Today we dip into Montenegro, for a night’s stay in Podgorica. 

 

Podgorica may not top many a city break chart, but the Montenegrin capital is rich in history and ripe for discovery. It’s undergone five name changes and twice been wiped off the map entirely. Remnants of Roman times, its long days as a fulcrum of the Ottoman Empire and – in its brutalist socialist architecture – reminders of the functional days under Yugoslav communism are all present. Perfect for our group, who will explore the pint-sized city over one day, taking in the Stara Varoš (the Old Town), which retains traces of the 400 years in which it was the centre of a bustling Ottoman Turkish town, the ruins of the Ribnica Fortress, which dates back to the 15th century, the Partisan mausoleum housing the remains of 97 heroes of Yugoslavia from World War Two, a brace of historic mosques and the Cathedral of Christ's Resurrection, featuring frescoes depicting the likeness of Marshal Tito, Karl Marx, and Friedrich Engels burning in hell.  

 

On our way to Podgorica, we shall also take a pilgrimage to the most important site in Montenegro for Orthodox Christians, Ostrog Monastery, which rests improbably – miraculously? – in a cliff face 900m above the Zeta valley.

 

25-28 June | Albania

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Krujë, Durrës and Tirana are our key destinations in Albania as we conclude our Balkans adventure. 

 

Krujë is among the top five castles and fortifications in Albania. The capital of the Principality of Arbëria (Albania’s ancient name) during the Middle Ages, this tiny medieval village, nestled in the foothills of the Albanian Alps, was the home base of patriots and the epicentre of Albania's independence from the Ottoman Empire. As we make our way to Durres, we stop over for lunch and a wander, taking in the 450-year-old Grand Bazaar tucked between cobblestone streets and beautiful Ottoman-style wooden houses lined with more than 150 charming shops selling traditional local crafts and products. Perched high above the village is the elliptical-shaped Krujë Castle. The site of Albanian resistance under the command of 15th-century Albanian feudal lord Gjergj Kastriot Skanderbeg and a proud reminder of Albanian perseverance and strength, it now houses two museums a Turkish bath, and commands fab views out to Tirana and the Adriatic Sea.

 

With a history dating back nearly 3,000 years, Durrës has rightfully earned its reputation as the eternal city on the Adriatic Sea. One of the oldest and most significant port cities in the Balkans, the vibrant coastal city serves as an open-air museum, narrating the rich history of Albania, with Emperor Hadrian's amphitheatre the city's most prominent historical landmark. Our two-night stay will allow us to explore the city's highlights at our leisure, including the Durrës Castle, a medieval fortress whose origins trace back to the Byzantine era, and the Archaeological Museum, nestled within a Venetian tower. Bustling markets and vibrant nightlife await, as does the unique Albanian cuisine steeped in Mediterranean flavours which we shall savour during our official goodbye dinner.

 

Officially dubbed 'The Place Beyond Belief', Albania's capital, Tirana, is known for its cultural heritage, religious diversity, colourful buildings, Italian and Socialist architecture, and natural attractions. Having transformed extraordinarily since awakening from its communist slumber in the early 1990s, Tirana's centre is now unrecognisable from those grey days, with buildings painted in primary colours and public squares and pedestrianised streets that are a joy to wander, and make for easy access to the city's highlights, which include the Clock Tower, the Et'hem Bey Mosque, the 32-room Selim Pashe Toptani's Palace and the Natural History Museum, filled with Greek and Roman treasures.

 

For our Dark Tourist guests, there is also much to experience, including the House of Leaves, a museum about the brutal regime of Enver Hoxha, secret surveillance and interrogation (read; torture house), Communist-Era Statues, and Hoxha's grave. The dictator's former fallout shelter is now a history museum/art gallery called Bunk'Art, while the Stalinist Pyramid of Tirana monument is being redesigned as a creative hub for media and design. 

 

Our amazing adventure in The Balkans concludes with an optional excursion/hiking trip to the easily-accessible The Cave of Pellumbas, one of the earliest prehistoric settlements of the area, located on the slopes of the Dajti mountains, and by a picturesque village.

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